A mountaineering expedition to the Cordillera Blanca provides intermediate to advanced climbers with the opportunity to test their climbing abilities on peaks over 18,000’.

ECMG offers custom trips to the Cordillera Blanca, based on a climber’s previous mountaineering experience and the amount of time they would like to spend in Peru climbing. We recommend between 17-21 days, as we spend the first week acclimatizing.  Some of the peaks we have guided in the past include: Urus Este 17,782’, Ishinca 18,138’, Pisco 18,872’, and Tocllaraju 19,790’.

This is a sample itinerary for our 17 day Classic Cordillera Blanca Expedition.  Keep in mind that climbers must remain flexible, as oftentimes route conditions and weather dictate our actual itinerary.  We can add additional climbs for folks who are willing to spend an extra 4 days in Peru.

Day 1: Fly to Lima, Peru.  Night at a local hotel in Lima.

Day 2: Private bus transfer to Huaraz, Peru (elevation 10,137’).  8 hour bus ride, with views into the Cordillera Blanca and the Huayhuash Range, home of Siula Grande the peak made famous in the movie “Touching the Void”.  Check into our accommodations at the Angeles Inn, Huaraz.

Day 3: Day tour around Huaraz, gear check and general acclimatization.  Night in Huaraz.

Day 4: Acclimatization hike to Laguna Churup 14,714’.  Night in Huaraz.

Day 5: Acclimatization hike near Huaraz.  Night in Huaraz.

Day 6: Hike into the Ishinca Valley to the Ishinca Hut located in a beautiful valley at 14,455’.  The approach hike is roughly 8 miles, up a mellow valley with the Ishinca River flowing below the climbers trail. Burros will carry our loads into the hut.  We will check into the Ishinca Hut and take in the amazing views of the surrounding peaks.  Night at the Ishinca Hut.

Day 7: Acclimatization hike from the Ishinca Hut.  We have many hiking options to choose from to further our acclimatization and take some great photos.  Night at the Ishinca Hut.

Day 8: Climb Urus Este 17,782’.  We will get an alpine start and work our way up a steep hillside behind the Ishinca Hut.  This climb is relatively short, once we reach the glacier and head up towards the final summit pyramid.  There is some 3rd and 4th class scrambling to reach the summit.  Night at the Ishinca Hut.

Day 9:  Rest day, short hike optional.  Night at the Ishinca Hut.

Day 10:  Climb Ishinca 18,138’.  We will get an alpine start from the hut and work our way up an adjoining valley to the toe of the Ishinca Glacier.  At the base of the glacier we will rope up and work through some crevasses, before approaching the steep (45 degree) summit pyramid.  From the summit, we are directly across from Ranrapalca, a beautiful peak towering at over 20,000’.  Night at the Ishinca Hut.

Day 11:  Hike back down Ishinca Valley and bus back to Huaraz.  Night in Huaraz.

Day 12:  Rest and recovery in Huaraz.  Walk around town, visit local markets and relax.  Night in Huaraz.

Day 13:  Private transfer to the Llanganuco Valley and hike into the Pisco Hut 15,407’.  This is a short hike normally taking 2-3 hours.  Burros will carry our loads to the hut.  Night at the Pisco Hut.

Day 14: Climb Pisco Oeste 18,872’.  We will get an early start and work our way across a rocky moraine till we arrive at the toe of the Pisco Glacier.  Once we work into the saddle between Pisco and the Huandoys, we again are greeted with another amazing view of the Andes.  From the saddle we work our way up a breathtaking ridgeline, until we reach the summit.  Night at the Pisco Hut.

Day 15:  Hike back to trailhead and private transfer back to Huaraz.  Night in Huaraz.

Day 16:  Weather day.  We build this into our schedule in the event of inclement weather.

Day 17:  Private transfer back to Lima, depart Peru.

Optional climbs:  Depending on climber skill, fitness and available time we can add other climbs such as Tocllaraju or Chopicalqui.  Adding one of these climbs would push our itinerary closer to 21 days.

Dates: The climbing season in the Cordillera Blanca begins in May and goes through August.  Contact us directly for custom dates.

Rates: We offer custom expeditions tailored to each climber’s needs and background.  Please contact us directly to build an itinerary providing you with the best Andean climbing experience.

503-329-6603

info@eaglecapmountainguides.com

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What our clients say about our trips

“The Wallowa Traverse was a life-changing trip for me. A big reason is that I have 100% trust in Victor and Kelly to maximize adventure while constantly assessing risk and keeping us safe. It was truly a transformational experience!”

This traverse was a big step for me and my crew as it relates to winter camping, skiing under the weight of a heavier pack and moving through truly remote wilderness terrain over a period of days.  Victor and Kelly did an amazing job of making this magical wilderness experience accessible for us.  Can’t wait to expand upon our new skills in the winters ahead with Eagle Cap Mountain Guides.

Victor and Kelly organized and guided our April 2021 Editor’s Choice trip for Backpacker Magazine. Their logistics, story-telling entertainment and professionalism exceeded our expectations. A trip with Eagle Cap Mountain Guides is sure to be a seasonal highlight for anyone!

Victor and his wife Kelly were the perfect guides for our four-day trip in the Wallowas. Victor knows these mountains inside and out, and he chose routes each day that maximized fun skiing, beautiful views, and safety. Both Victor and Kelly were quick to offer information about the range and what we would be skiing, and gave our group of five plenty of tips on how to ascend and descend terrain safely. They were also both incredibly fun to ski with, and gave us an incredible bonus by bringing their dogs Luna and Sadie along. I can’t think of a better, more well-rounded guiding experience.

I’m not the world’s strongest skier, but Victor and Kelly made me feel like I was capable of trying any line we came across. Out in the field, they answered any and all of my questions—beyond their superb back-country skills, they were super knowledgeable about the region’s terrain, wildlife, and history. Their support and encouragement left me with a lot of confidence that I’ve brought home with me. Would recommend 10/10! I can’t wait to head back to the Wallowas!

Victor has guided many group dynamics over 8 yrs of my trips to the Wallowas. He’s cool, calm, and most capable. His cliffside manner is impressive both in helping manage the over-stokers’ desire to send and encouraging those that need a little confidence boost. All the while he’s sharing knowledge and epic adventure tales.

I have been on several trips with Victor and what stands out most about his trips is his demeanor and leadership in a mountain setting. He pays exceptional attention to detail and is very attentive to all clients needs and to safety. I have never been in the mountains with anyone more knowledgable. His expeditions are always well planned and you are sure to have an amazing alpine experience with Victor and his team. I could not recommend him more strongly to guide a fun and safe trip.

Victor has an amazing talent for unassumingly putting together huge tours, confidently and safely guiding through complicated terrain.

My wife and I have had the opportunity to join Victor on 2 ski trips in the Wallowas and a climbing adventure on Mt. Goode. Whether it be hero powder skiing, graybird rain skiing, standing on a remote summit, or slogging out endless miles on the trail, our adventures with Victor has always been epic! He is organized and thorough in his trip planning and logistics. He has a high level of fitness, and he’s an incredibly capable skier, snowboarder, and climber. Victor’s professionalism, sense of humor, and character all amount to someone that you want to spend time with both on the mountain and in the hut/camp! We highly recommend Victor as a guide on your next adventure!

Current Openings Overnight Hut Trips: Jan 15-18, Jan 22-25, Jan 30-Feb 1, Feb 5-8, Feb 12-14, Feb 26-28, March 11-13, March 18-20

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